When bad behavior seems to run amok and all appears bleak, do rare moments of grace make a difference?
Hannah Selinger is an accomplished food and travel writer. Her work has appeared in Travel & Leisure, The New York Times Magazine, Eater, The Wall Street Journal, Bon Appétit and a number of other well-respected publications. She’s been nominated for a James Beard award for her writing and her work has appeared in “The Best American Food Writing 2022” collection.
Prior to writing, Hannah worked as a certified sommelier for several well-known restaurants in New York. Now, Hannah has written a memoir about her life in the restaurant business. It’s called “Cellar Rat: My Life in the Restaurant Underbelly.” In her review in the San Francisco Chronicle, Hannah Bae calls the book a “passionate, insightful and deservedly critical book on the culture of restaurant work.”
Hannah’s book is indeed critical and specific about the indignities and abuse she experienced while working in the restaurant industry. She provides examples of several restaurant people (high-profile and not-so-much) guilty of bad behavior.
It can make for a harrowing read to be brought along on Hannah’s journey. But then I am a biased observer. Hannah was a graduate student I taught at Emerson College 20 years ago. We’ve stayed in touch over the years, particularly as she made the shift from wine to writing.
Most of the reviews of Hannah’s book focus on those who seemed to go out of their way to demean others, including her. But there are moments in her book that suggest not everyone was a creep. Friends and supporters abound but are rarely mentioned. And then there is one episode Hannah recalls in which a high-profile celebrity chef seems to go out of his way to show some kindness.
Shortly after starting to work at Bobby Flay’s Bar Americain, he made a visit to the restaurant. He noticed Hannah standing by the oyster bar staring at her notepad. After asking her her name and a few questions he quickly surmised that she didn’t know much about oysters. He then tapped the metal bar and was served various oysters, which he proceeded to taste with Hannah and walk her through the differences and how to describe them to customers. “Now you know the difference,” she recalls him saying and with that he walked on and she went back to her station.
Certainly, it was in Flay’s best interest to have a staff well-versed on what they were serving customers. But he didn’t scold her or dismiss her for not knowing as much as he did about mollusks.
The incident is only a brief moment among pages where such patience is nowhere in sight. But that moment taken by a celebrity restaurateur who did not need to take it stood out to me. When someone takes the time to show grace, it’s good to call it out. Especially in an industry that is notorious for treating employees poorly, taking a moment to point out examples of those who don’t and who still have managed to achieve great success seems the right thing to do.
Jeffrey L. Seglin, author of The Simple Art of Business Etiquette: How to Rise to the Top by Playing Nice, is a senior lecturer in public policy and director of the communications program at Harvard's Kennedy School. He is also the administrator of www.jeffreyseglin.com, a blog focused on ethical issues.
Do you have ethical questions that you need to have answered? Send them to jeffreyseglin@gmail.com.
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